CREA: The Group Meeting III

When Clint Hardy and Suzy Martin came to visit, we were able to attend another CREA group meeting, CREA Pergamino. Jorge Banciotto is the vocale for northern Buenos Aires and he invited us to this meeting. Our host farm was Estancia Santa Rosa, about 10 or 15 km from the paved road. (Later that turned out to be quite the adventure.)

The morning meeting was different than usual. The morning was devoted to discussing how/if CREA should change. The producers were asked to work in groups, fill out individual surveys and discuss how and if CREA should change. The survey asked several questions from the purpose of CREA to the function of the various components of CREA. I kept a copy because it has some of the same questions we might need to ask if we develop something like this.

Once the morning session was over, we were served lunch. I have been told by more than one member that a good lunch is critical to a good meeting (sounds like home). But, for lunch, we started with salami, cheese, olives and bread as appetizers. After that, we had epanadas, baked joys of beef or ham wrapped in something similar to a pie crust. After that, we moved on to chori-pan, which would be similar to an Italian sausage sandwich with French bread. That was capped off with an ice cream dessert and coffee.

After lunch, the amazing part happened... all of the members stayed and all of the members stayed awake. The three "Americanos" marveled at the Argentines' ability to stay attentive and engaged after such a meal.

The afternoon became the normal CREA group meeting with the presentation by the host and group discussion. This group function was similar to the others I have witnessed. The group members do their best to give an honest assessment of the host farm and to provide valuable criticism.

Equally impressive to the ability to stay awake after a big lunch, was the quietness of cell phones. All cell phones were on silent. During the entire day, only three or four calls were answered. If they were answered, the producer quickly and quietly left the meeting area. At home, it almost seems a demonstration of importance to take a cell phone call during a meeting. Here, it was considered rude.  For the most part, the group members stayed engaged for the entire time of the meeting. They all talked, but they were courteous towards each other. Once in a while, the moderator would have to quiet everyone and restore order. This is the type of engagement we in Extension say we want, but we never quite get there in most of our meetings.

It was nearly dark when it was time to leave... and it had been raining all day. We were 10 to 15 km from paved roads, so the drive to the paved roads was extremely exciting. I say exciting because we never had to get out and push... although we came close once or twice. Jorge, the producer who invited us, was also our driver. If he ever decides to change careers, I think he would do just fine in NASCAR or on the Rally circuit!

Roads and Railroads

A grain truck on the road next to an abandoned railroad. The poles for the old telegraph still remain.

Living in the center of the "Bread Basket" for Argentina, one common question asked my many visitors is, "Where are the trains?" Asking that question gets you about the same answer from every person in the area. "The British built a great train system, but the government took it over and ruined it."

This region (southern Santa Fe, southwestern Cordoba and northern Buenos Aires) is the heart of corn and soybean production in Argentina. This year was a great one. Yields were massive. Almost every seed company has a base here. Seed corn is grown here. Venado Tuerto hosts almost all of the farm machinery manufacturers. Harvest was very exciting because of the yields. And the roads were clogged with semi trucks loaded with grain driving the hundred or so miles to Rosario. And that brings rise to one of the greatest seasons for everyone else... passing semi-trucks on the road.

Semi-trucks can only go 50 miles per hour (80 km/hr) while cars can go 68 miles per hour (110 km/hr). The main road from Venado Tuerto to Rosario is a two-lane road. If you are in a car, sooner than later - - usually sooner - - you will be slowed down by a semi-truck only going 50 mph. In some cases, you will be slowed down by a truck going much slower... usually a very old Ford, Chevy, Dodge or Mercedes Benz. In these cases, semis are trying to pass semis. Your challenge is to pass the semi without getting plastered by a semi coming back from Rosario, or by a car trying to pass that semi. You also have to make sure a car behind you isn't trying to pass you as you are trying to pass the semi. This game is not for the faint-of-heart.

You do all of this while driving parallel to an abandoned railroad. While you are stuck behind one of these semis, or getting up the nerve to pass, you ask yourself.... "Why are there no trains?"

As was told by many, the British did come to Argentina to build railroads. However, so did the French. According to people who remember, those railroads were very good. They were credited with helping to improve the economy of the entire country. But, the railroads were foreign-owned and were built to help export products... not necessarily help products move within Argentina. During World War II, Argentine products became very valuable and the country was running a surplus. President Juan Peron purchased the British and French railroad companies and nationalized the railways.

The government was not able to integrate these rail systems or make money with them. Eventually, transport of goods by truck took over. Today, the truck drivers' union is very strong. For the foreseeable future, trains are not going to transport all that grain to port. Maybe someone could convince the government to build an extra lane or two.

The Back Roads II

An earlier posting on the roads in Argentina addressed some of the challenges of getting around after rain. I've been on a lot more roads since then and the same theme holds true. Rain and back roads in Argentina are a bad mix.

Most farmers are not happy with their roads, or with their government in managing these roads. One farmer told me that they pay taxes based on their land size. All of those taxes go to the government. A local consortium comprised of local citizens then gets 55% of those taxes to manage the roads. The remaining 45% is gone. . . or at least it appears to be gone. The citizens use the 55% to purchase equipment, operate equipment and maintain the roads as best as possible.

Almost all of the back roads are dirt. Gravel is a rare commodity. I am not a civil engineer, but I wonder what just a little gravel on the surface good do. However, if 45% of your money for roads disappears, can you afford to purchase gravel?

Farmers in the States are used to rain keeping them out of the fields at harvest, but they are not used to rain keeping them off the roads. (Of course, I am writing this as many places in Kentucky are under water from heavy rains.)

Because of these roads, many farmers and their families live in towns. Better schools, consistent electricity and access to goods, services, etc. are all good reasons for living in town. About the only people I have witnessed living on the farm have direct access to paved roads and/or do not have children.

With 30% retention on soybean, 20+% retention on corn and a 45% "disappearance" of the road tax and a 21% sales tax, I can understand how a producer may not want to invest any more in the roads. . . or in much of anything related to public services.

In addition to this, there are not as many grain bins and grain elevators as in the States. Also, there are almost no railroads.

The Back Roads

While the Pampas is full of large level fields that are square and relatively efficient to farm, one major bottleneck in the system can be the roads. There are some good paved roads but most of the roads are dirt. When the weather is dry, there are fewer problems, except for dust. When the weather is wet, the roads can be very challenging.

One night during the Kentucky farmers' visit, we received 3 inches of rain. The next day was a real adventure getting back to pavement. Our host, Carlos Peretti, led the group in a SUV. The five cars followed. Behind all of us was a tractor and a chain... just in case! We slid, spun and flung mud for about 10 km (maybe a little more). Carlos was an excellent host the entire time and he certainly did a wonderful job of getting us through the mud and to pavement. (I need to do an article just on the hospitality here.) When it was all said and done, we made it through with mud on the cars and a great story to tell. While the muddy roads were fun for us, they are not fun when these fields are ready for harvest.

We quickly understood how easily the entire harvest season could be slowed down by rain. This has been a wet season, so we will see of the rains continue through harvest.

Carlos Peretti led the group to pavement. This would have made a great commercial for Kia SUVs!

Gerry Hayden drove our car and got us through with no problems.

The soil is very deep here, but easily erodible with heavy rains.